Despite the amount of time I spend in their territory (or perhaps because of it) I’m not afraid of bears, snakes, or spiders. In fact, for years when people would ask what I am afraid of, I had a hard time coming up with an answer (AI was my kidding-not-kidding reply, and look who was ahead of the curve).
But there is something I’m afraid of. Falling.
In the literal sense, I’m not even sure if “afraid” is entirely the right word. Hesitant? It doesn’t keep me up at night. Even in the moment on the rope, I’m not worrying with sweaty palms. I’m simply not doing it. And the thing about climbing is it takes adages like “if you’re not falling, you’re not trying” and makes them extremely real.
I’m not huge on resolutions, but this year? This is the year of no fear.
“You’ve got to jump off cliffs and build your wings on the way down.” -Ray Bradbury
I remember being impacted really hard by this quote the first time I heard it, despite the fact that it’s perfect for an embroidery hanging above the toilet of a suburban housewife. It’s so poetically simple and idealistic. I never considered how “on the nose” it would become.
I’ve attempted some decently sized challenges, but I don’t think I’ve ever embodied the true spirit of the sentiment. That’s okay. I’m not sure it’s wise. But do we always have to be wise?
I am NEVER going to be able to climb 5.13. I can eat properly and train, train, train, but there is an upper bound to this kind of stuff if you don’t make it your sole focus for years at a time, which I am unwilling to do. This means that certain climbing routes and summits will always be out of reach. The good news is there are innumerable gorgeous, fantastic routes well within my ability and potential, if I am just. willing. to fall. Hell, you can get up El Cap on 5.10b.
I mentioned at the end of a post last March that I had taken my first real outdoor lead fall. It was a huge step. It came about organically. It wasn’t even scary in the moment. But that was the last time I fell. The last time I committed myself wholly to a task not knowing what would happen and built my wings on the way down.
I intellectually understand that the gear will catch me. I don’t get terrified when I do fall. As recently as a month ago, I probably wouldn’t have said I’m scared at all. But spending more time thinking about it and reading/listening to what pro climber Hazel Findlay has to say about it, I’ve come to terms with the fact that I am (not a plug, but I’m considering taking her online course).
Falling is scary, no matter what you’re doing.
My last few posts of 2023 focused on longevity and periodization. This fits perfectly. Because as romantic as jumping into the deep end sounds, it’s pointless, and potentially dangerous, without the right foundation. This year is about laying that foundation.
There are four major athletic time consumers for me right now: strength training, climbing, cycling, and foot travel (running/hiking). My goal is to at any point in time be prioritizing one, shelving one, and dabbling in two. The cold and a nagging elbow have cycling on the shelf right now. The same reasons, weather and injury, are keeping me from cranking miles or crimps for the time being.
I need to get stronger, this includes mentally. I don’t need to set a bench PR. I don’t need to do a pull-up with 100 extra lbs hanging from my belt. I need to be consistently and sustainably stronger. I need to be fit.
Fitness is what you have when you have the tools to jump off that cliff at any moment it’s appropriate. Building wings takes strength. Strength takes time.
The other key ingredient to this strategy is not rushing. I’m the kind of person who naturally wants to shortcut things for efficiency. I try to accomplish phone tasks (aka distractions) in between lifting sets. I listen to podcasts when doing just about everything. But there is so much value in the focus. When I’m training, I need to be training. When I’m running, be running.
When I’m falling. Be falling.
Weekly Choss
This week’s glossary begins with route grades. The most common route grading convention here in the U.S. is the Yosemite Decimal System, or YDS. In it, proper rock climbing grades range currently from 5.0 (say, a steep ramp) to 5.15d (THIS and only this route, as of now). There is quite a bit more complexity, but what you essentially need to know is the higher the number after the decimal, the harder the route. 5.10 is above 5.9, etc.
“lead” - climbing with no protection above you and a rope trailing that you clip into pieces of protection as you progress. if you cannot access the top of a route any other way to set up a toprope, then someone must lead the route. others can then follow, with the rope running above them to anchors at the top and back down.
crimps - small climbing holds that just one, or perhaps two pads of each finger can fit on.
Brendan re-posts this every year, but truly, let’s make 2024 the YEAR OF MAXIMUM ENTHUSIASM. I’ve tried to be better about building others up and celebrating the wins, but we could all practice more enthusiasm all the time. It’s not always easy, but just keep it in the back of your mind when things occasionally get down.
More from Brendan, as he helped make this short film about a team attempting to paddle the Grand Canyon faster than anyone ever. Absolutely worth a watch. I particularly enjoy the opening lines that fit neatly with today’s post, as well as the appearance of a familiar face. If you’ve ever seen Into the Wild, you might recognize Brian Dierker, the expert who gets interview a few times throughout, as he played Rainey in that film. Had no idea he was a real-life outdoorsman.
Not outdoorsy at all, but we saw Myq Kaplan perform live in Minneapolis recently, and I like plugging his stuff because it’s brilliant yet so under most people’s radar. His special, “Small, Dork, and Handsome,” from ten years ago is what made me a fan, and you can watch it on that weird streaming service Freevee that is included with your Amazon Prime membership. He’s good at words. I like words.
If all goes according to plan, scratch that, if all goes somewhat kinda almost close to planned, I hope to be logging some substantial miles on the Ice Age Trail this year. So it was very cool to visit the Western Terminus last week in Interstate State Park. Might just be the best view on the whole trail. If you’re ever in the area, Franconia sculpture park is also worth a visit.
Stay jumping and building, people.